2001 Audi S4 Quattro Clutch Slave Cylinder Free Updated

2001 Audi S4 Quattro Clutch Slave Cylinder Free Updated

This article applies to: 2001 TT CQ

Restriction fluid is supplied to the chief by a hose from the brake reservoir, which the clutch and rakes share. When you press on the clutch pedal, the chief cylinder forces some of this fluid out the exit port, through a safety hose about 2 feet long, ( past way of an aluminum "frequency modulator" -to reduce vibration, I assume) to the slave cylinder. The slave is located inside the clutch housing. And that forces out the throwout bearing, which is part of the slave cylinder (a very unusual organisation) that actually presses on multiple steel fingers, which move the clutch pressure plate off the clutch disc. This disconnects engine from transmission so you can shift quietly.

Usual cars take a spring in the chief cylinder, so no matter what happens at the clutch and slave cylinder, the pedal comes back up. Then, a pedal-on-the-floor-defect usually means chief cylinder failure. In contrast, where pedal feels fine but doesn't operate the clutch usually signals a slave cylinder failure. Of form, leaking fluid either place is nigh a guarantee that's where the failure is.

TT principal cylinders all the same exercise not take a leap, (likewise very unusual), except for the over center spring pressing on the clutch pedal. So, the only forcefulness pushing the pedal dorsum up is the pressure plate itself, pressing on the slave cylinder, pushing the fluid dorsum upstream to the master.

So if a TT clutch pedal goes to the floor, you cannot tell where the defect. This is a problem.

This is the clutch master cylinder.

Removal of clutch master: ( which is much easier than slave, but still a tight access task) showtime determination is, do you disassemble the pedal from cylinder and spring while it is all in the car, or, do yous remove whole pedal/cylinder. associates and do work on your bench?

To remove the whole assembly (pedal, master cylinder, overcenter spring and black-sail metallic box-like back up, virtually 3 inches Ten ii inches past 8 inches long): yous must remove 3 13mm bolts that agree it to firewall.(clutch master cylinder is inside the car, not in hood area, too unusual) . But the topmost bolt is quite inaccessible, so I chose to disassemble in place.

These pix are later on it was all out.( Later on on):

This is firewall from inside car, looking forward; keyhole opening is for primary, encounter the iii bolts:

Notes on Disassembly in place:

To remove Overcenter jump: Bentley suggests a special tool (they make special tools for everything, for no practiced reason, in my opinion.) This isn't needed at all; you can remove overcenter spring with blunt instrument by paw, while it's still in identify. Just hold clutch pedal up in the air and press on it.

Removal of shaft of master cylinder from pedal: Bentley also suggests another lightheaded special tool. But there is just a white plastic c-clip type of device, ( visible on 2 pix above) and you lot can press in each of the 2 legs of it, and and then just pull shaft off pedal with your easily.

Easiest to remove the supply hose from the brake reservoir, exit it attached to Master cylinder, and take it out along due west the master cylinder. That'southward easier access than trying to remove this brusk hose from the master itself while in place.

The master will not come up out of the motorcar until you lot remove the circular, about 1in bore, white, "over center spring support" that is upwardly against the firewall. It but twists out easily, ninety degree rotation, once the overcenter spring is out. Y'all cannot remove cylinder without doing this first.

This is view while lying on flooring, after overcenter spring is out. Looking upward. Distressing for poor quality pix.

To remove the pedal support box, you will remove the clutch cease of this support connector, Ok to leave other side attached to interruption pedal:

Also, volition demand to remove tiny metal bound clip that attaches the go out port of the master to the aluminum "frequency modulator". The bound clip will fly off to parts unknown when you do release it. Be warned. If you don't accept the modulator, then its aforementioned bound, but to a hose.

If you call back this picture is hard to read, attempt getting your hand in there! That'south why I suggested leaving the supply hose on the primary while removing it.

Some other view, closer upwards than above, inside hood, looking downward at spring clip at exit port of
master cylinder:

Then, main cylinder wiggles out. You need to lower the rear virtually terminate of cylinder, and enhance the front end stop, to get the exit hose to clear the firewall (the exit port protrudes forward, thru the firewall, and and then heads down at a 90 deg bending).

To reassemble, I decided to practice information technology on a bench, and to reinstall equally ane piece. The play a trick on was the uppermost bolt. A very very long extension with one/4 in bulldoze 13mm socket did the job.

Bleeding: you accept now introduced air into the system, and then you must pressurize the restriction reservoir, then open the bleed screw located at slave cylinder. Put hose over the drain spiral, so yous don't squirt fluid everywhere. I tried vacuum suction to bleed, just it didn't work. It's a 3way horizontal connector: top opening has the bleed screw, 1 opening gets the hose from master and frequency modulator, other end gets part of the actual slave cylinder. The slave is fix so that gravity will get the air to escape, then you don't actually bleed the slave itself. Pic is of new 1 (mine leaked badly at connector to slave), w caps on each opening.

My master looked perfect, and then unfortunately, on to the slave cylinder, which ways remove trans- quite a enervating job. That'due south the next write-up!

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2001 Audi S4 Quattro Clutch Slave Cylinder Free Updated

Posted by: hamiltonsaund2000.blogspot.com

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